From JW Anderson to Ella Emhoff: Introducing Vogue’s Elite New Weirdness


Anyone experiencing a more creative jolt than Jonathan Anderson? While everyone struggled to master the fashion show video in the early days of the pandemic, the Loewe and JW Anderson designer jiggled to master touch and connection, even intimacy. Like a lover or your brilliant friend whom you know excitedly and a little boastful, he’ll send you things before his shows – folders with pictures and works of art, clippings that fold into turntables, clothes that pop out like paper dolls. For his Fall 2021 show, which took place on Wednesday morning, he sent out posters like souvenirs from a good museum exhibit filmed by the fashion-based friendly freak Jürgen Teller. Anderson is like an Edwardian time traveler who has a lot of fun partying in Ibiza. His clothing makes you smile and invites the eye to linger. Some have looked at the challenges of the past year and seen a business challenge. Anderson saw a demand for creativity.

Juergen Teller

For his JW Anderson Show in the fall of 2021 he wanted “[push] a certain dullness, a blatant and conceptual look ”, it says in the show notes, and anchored the collection with simply absurd trousers that protruded from the hips with a sweet Claes Oldenburg appeal. In leather and cotton, they look like you can shape them or just let them sag. (I was thinking of sculptors like Oldenberg or Al Freeman who recreate objects from different materials to see what the shape looks like. One artist’s sad hamburger or saggy pants is another artist’s happy hamburger or outfit.) Overall. ) Overall the pieces felt like templates for fashion, ideas for more intricate clothes – the kind of funky, beautiful things you buy that weirdly wear four times a week. You could wear the cozy tunic dresses with their plump belts over pants; without pants and motorcycle boots; over a skirt; over chunky shorts; or at home without pants or underwear. The same applies to the gender-neutral prairie dress. And the big, chubby tops with tails, tentacles and curly manes? Well, these are for the budding fashion collector in all of us – a customer segment that Anderson seems to be clearly aware of when designing. Rarely do you look at someone’s clothes and think, “There is a man who reads a book!” but Anderson does it consistently.

Juergen TellerJuergen TellerJuergen Teller

Another bookworm brand: the Paris-based, Caribbean-based duo behind Botter. Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh make clothes that are somewhere between the stealthy luxury of their super high-end designers and the flotsam-etsyam look of a lot of upcycling and conscientious fashion. Her pieces are made from old umbrellas and recycled ocean trash – but they’re elegant. “Old umbrellas” are no joke either – there is a traditional Parisian umbrella manufacturer who hangs a large display over the streets every year and then just throws out the umbrellas. So Botter and Herrebrugh picked them up and made anoraks, jackets, and suits that had a nice, worn, weathered look. They also made suits and necklaces adorned with elaborate Japanese fishing lures and matching jackets with a wetsuit-inspired keyhole. Also spectacular: knitwear with a lace-up neck made from the upper of a real Nike Flyknit model. The body was made from a dense Flyknit-inspired weave that was lined with wool to keep it in its stiff shape but feel soft against the body. Isn’t that a great time? But it’s so subtle. Either you have to meet with a dilute society that knows enough to ask about your quietly sublime anorak – “It’s made from recycled ocean plastic, baby!” – or you have to accept that this is the fashion for you and you alone. When I asked the couple about this sense of balance, Herrebrugh said they often “weakened” as they work, and Botter added that this also stems from the style of their Caribbean upbringing. “People think it’s always so colorful in the Caribbean,” he said. “But it’s always elegant. It is always balanced with natural tones. It’s a combination of tones – like what makes a painting work. “

When I look at clothes like this, I see the uniform of a young, intelligent person – a group that is a little more serious and sensitive than the residents of Dimes Square. These are people who like to feel the hand in an item of clothing, but also want to think something. They don’t get high sitting around in beige cashmere, nor do they crave the intensity of clenching in a tremendous fit that really is an event in itself (at least daily). Think Ella Emhoff with her bardcore aesthetic. Maybe the Crown stars Emma Corrin and Josh Charles (a face of Loewe) play. Acolytes of the thoughtful power stylist Ib Kamara. Dev Hynes, Jeremy O. Harris. Every Thom Browne dresses; The same applies to Bode. People for whom showing up means showing their hearts and minds alike – but too mundane, or perhaps just too smart to remind you of a Wes Anderson movie. They prefer to be weird to quirky.

These are people who want to spend money on clothes, but not the clothes that everyone pays their money on – who want things that are smart and sophisticated, but not too fashionable. We now have famous playwrights and poets in this country, or at least one of each. There is a slow fashion enthusiast with a quilting parent in the White House! Perhaps the public intellectual is back – but not in the elbow patches of his predecessors. Welcome to the Elite New Weird.




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