There are still a few taboos in fashion, but none of them concern gender. Men have been wearing skirts for years, and designers like Thom Browne and Rick Owens made them staple foods. (Of course, fashion historians will remind you that boys wore dresses until puberty, and critics will point to Yohij Yamamoto, Raf Simons, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and others who put men in skirts on the catwalk in the 90s). Harry Styles in a Gucci dress or a Chopova Lowena skirt may cause a stir among right-wing commentators, but even the least daring dressers are usually a shrug of the shoulders.
This spring, a new twist on the skirt art can make the shrug completely go away. This garment is ideal for those who consider the skirt to be a bold fashion frontier that they can almost imagine conquering. Think of it as the missing link between the chicest basketball shorts and the liberating expanse of a ball gown. It has already found its way into the closets of what we might consider mainstream fashion barometers: Jordan Clarkson in a plaid skirt from Fear of God; Jeremy O. Harris in Gucci, Thom Browne, and his own platonic ideal created for Ssense’s Works Lab; and Dan Levy, perhaps our prime example of the bright fashion victim that always comes first in all untested designer ideas, from unorthodox tuxedos to men’s couture.
Jordan Clarkson shows how perfect the ceiling skirt is for après basketball.
The special thing about this new skirt is that it looks like an American sportswear classic: It corresponds to the skirt of trustworthy chinos. There are options from brands like Comme des Garcons and Rick Owens who have been making men’s skirts for years. as well as several versions from newer participants, such as Stephano Pilati’s Berlin club Kid Line Random Identities. There are skirts from brands like Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Situationist that are now at the center of the fashion compass. Schoolgirl skirts over stacked jeans were a recurring look in Hedi Slimane’s hit TikTok-inspired Spring 2021 collection. What all of these skirts all have in common is that they withstand provocation and instead are what one might call “pulled together”. These are men’s skirts that are restrained, classic – even tasteful. When Dan Levy wore a Thom Browne skirt suit for the Emmys last September, the answer was basically, “So what?” With big boots and a tailored jacket, it just looked like a suit to match.